We are slowly discovering the land of hospitality as this first small leg of the trip unfolds. We have arrived in El Calafate, the Glacial National park and touristville. Absolutely supercharged, vacuum extracting level in terms of the breathtaking scenery, mountains, and lakes filled with sun sculptured icebergs, glaciers piercing the sides of mountains, Eagles, Hawks Patagonian geese, Flamingos, and Pumas prowling and scowling the ranges. But it has been the bit in between where there is absolutely nothing (almost) except for tussock and loads of wind that has left the lasting impression.
As we have headed between the maze of lakes and mountains into the Patagonian sparseness the towns and Estancias (farms) have also become sparse. Clean water is harder to come by, food for each leg is more calculated and we have relied more on the fact that if there are farmers here surviving surely we can too. Every time we have ridden up to a door after the initial surprise at these odd looking people wearing tights and flouro clothing before them, people have gone overboard to help us out. When we ran out of money a Chilean couple in the middle of nowhere gave us the full use of their house then hacked up half a cow in front of us (which for them is a great gift) threw two bits of wood together which as they struck seemingly came alight into a perfect fire to cook over, then gave us a steel grill to cook the meat on and let us camp behind their house. They then got up in the morning to wish us well and could not have smiled any more if they where contortionists. An old farmer on a sheep farm did similarly, and was very pleased when he found we were from NZ and proceeded to ask questions about sheep in Spanish. He and a friend then did a kind of play - jumping in the air, throwing their arms up laughing saying “tent very windy wooosh ha ha ha”. Which I think was disapproval of our overnight tent spot - lucky for us they had us move to a more sheltered area.
So now we are in the more picturesque El Calafate on the lakeside of Lago Argenino Argentina’s biggest and the reason the Argentinean flag is Blue – white - blue, the blue of the lake, the white of the mountains and the blue of the sky depicted by a famous Argentinean explorer/scientist. I’ll let the photos speak for themselves, but it is spectacular. What you do not get in the pictures is the thunder of the ice continually breaking and the crisp noise of so many different birds.
Having decided to take the first day off after 1,086km the inevitable happened. While doing an out and back ride in the national park someone sprinkled some “rectosphincterlaxatide” (for you teckos) in our drink bottles with some disastrous effects though very good transition training for triathlons, bike – run - drop and repeat. Angela also had some “foodstraightbackupamoid” another technical medical condition which had her doing bike - run – bow repeats every 100m which was great training but does take it out of you after a while until there is nothing left. This has left us tired but ready to hit straight back into it as we recover and head up the continent knocking off the rest of Patagonia, looking to improve on our biggest day of 9.5hours in the saddle.
Please add your comments and thoughts it is so great hearing from you while we are out here. But just remember, “Start out at 100% and gradually pick up the pace”.
Silas
Keep charging Patagonia, your efforts are definitely going a long way to getting me amped while working away here in London…
Go Guys
Amazing scenery, great pictures, mate what an awesome trip keep the updates coming
Andy
Hey guys,
Hope everything is going well! Love the latest photos and think it’s definitely a place I’d love to visit. Will be doing it the lazy way though.
Good luck!
Kate
Hi Silas & Angela,
What a fantastic pictures and good stories allready!
Very inspiring!! That’s touring indeed and living 100%!
I’m sorry I had to smile hearing your Vietnam rack finally gave up Silas. Fortunately you solved it well, as I wouldn’t have expected else from you. You guys handled the cow in your wheel very easily, too, the way back from Sapa… And you’ve definetely allready been hammering afterwards!
Your trip does remember me of the ‘Motorcycle Diaries’ movie…
Keep on going you mintas!
E v a
Hi Silas and Gang,
May-be just a little bit interesting to hear about your exploits even further. Yeah I might just take an interest in hearing some more about it.
Looking forward to the days when we can catch up face to face and share a little more of the amber stuff (no Thai milkshakes though)
Cheers,
Michael
Silas,
Wow Amazing Photo’s - Keep them coming.
Enjoying reading about your ‘Adventures’ sitting here in the warm with a cup of coffee.
I’ll say ‘Hi’ to the swimmers in your ‘elite’s’ lane at Putney. We miss you - Terry makes us work far too hard!
Keep cycling and taking those photo’s
Barbara
Wahoooo! Looks amazing, sounds amazing. Great times that will never be forgotten. Go you sexy babes!
Ang
Cheers for the comments and emails, great fuel for the legs! Keep it cranking and we´ll keep pedaling as the wind ends (hopefully) and mountains approach, you beauty!
Woah! You guys are incredible! The photos are beautiful! I am in awe. Luck from the states!
Wow,
I heard about this site from your Dad Silas (peter). He swims at my pool in wellington, and he gave me your website to look at. I am going to read through your journals. But this is nothing short of AMAZING!!! man i love what you two are doing…I have always wanted to myself travel the world. So many places to see. I feel there is hardly not enough time. And what a great choice of transportation….the bike….that must be such hard work. i am a triathlete myself. I think your idea and what you are doing is so cool. You are inspiring me, and i think i will be doing the same thing as you when i finish my triathlon career.
Keep up the great work, you guys will make it, i love the photos, makes me wish i was there with you right now…
Martin van Barneveld
Dear Angela and Silas
Marie had told me before left for SA that you were going to be riding through. I hope that the wind is not too strong at the moment and maybe we may run into you as we are currently in Puerto Madryn making our way south. We leave today for Bariloche.
Keep peddling and enjoying the scenery. Happy travels